Butterfly Dreams!

On Thursday, February 25th, Pat and I went to see the monarch butterflies in their winter habitat.  Dana was supposed to join us but unfortunately he was quite sick through the night and had to cancel at the last minute.  We set the alarm for 4:15 am to catch the 5:00 am subway to the 6:00 am bus ride to Angangueo, Mexico.  This small mining town is located about a three hours drive north west of Mexico City.  The last hour of the drive involved a winding ascent on mountain roads.
Once we arrived at the town we found a driver to drive us the final 12 km to the park entrance of the El Rosario Sanctuary.  After paying a fee of $45 pesos each, we were met by a guide who accompanied us on the final climb up the hill.  The altitude made the climb quite strenuous, and at times I felt I had difficulty getting enough air.  My heart was pounding and my legs trembled from the journey.  But every step was worth it when we finally came out of the woods into a clearing where butterflies were flying and drinking water from a small stream.  The guide waited while we took in the beautiful view then motioned us with a wave and a call of, "moy bien".  After another short hike we walked into swarms of fluttering butterflies.  All around us the trees were covered with orange wings.  We took more pictures then saw the familiar wave and heard the words, "moy bien" again.  The last stop was breathtaking.  The trees all around us were covered in butterflies, millions and millions of them.  If the sights were not already enough to blow your mind, imagine for a moment the sounds that you hear when millions of butterflies fly at the same time!  Believe it or not, you can actually hear them.  A sight and sound to behold!

Entrance to the Sanctuary

One of the first butterflies.  He was rather dusty!

Zoom in and you can see the butterflies visiting this bush.

At this, our second stop, the butterflies flew all around us!

Sam, our Welsh friend, makes another friend.

This olymer fir tree trunk is covered in butterflies.

My love!

Butterfly dreams.

Pat makes a friend.

Clusters like these abound at the last stop.

Not so dusty!

When we left the park a local politician was delivering a heavily guarded speech about the importance of butterfly habitat preservation.  He was completely surrounded by guards like the one below.

Don't mess with me.

Looking down at the village of Angangueo

The butterflies are beginning to mate.  Soon they will begin their long migration north.

A poem for my mom!

Day Two: Museo Nacional de Anthropologia

On our second full day in Mexico City I took the subway to the National Museum of Anthology.  This world class museum, opened in 1964, contains a wonderful collection of artefacts from Mexico's pre-Columbian cultures.  This two story museum contains archaeological finds from ancient Mexico in the lower levels.  Upper rooms are devoted to Mexican ethnology, including information about all aspects of life from housing, costumes, and religions to social structures and festivals.  I focused my attention on the exhibits in the lower levels, particularly those related to Aztec culture.
The first three galleries offer an introduction to anthropology and an outline of the historical development of mankind.  The Aztec Hall, centrally located, displays many treasures of the Mexica, or Aztec culture.  Exhibits in this hall give you a strong sense of the everyday culture of the Aztec people before they were conquered by Hernan Cortes and the Spanish invaders.  The Aztecs were an incredibly adaptive, powerful civilization with enormous appetites for blood, sacrifice, war and conquest.

Prehistoric Woman:  It all began with Lucy!

Early peoples were hunters and gatherers.

With civilization came agriculture and permanent settlements.

The Aztecs settled on an island in Lake Texaco. 

Close up of what their city looked like.

Famous Aztec Stone of the Sun

For scale:  The stone is 3.6 m in diameter and weighs 24 tonnes.

The Aztecs were traders.

Feathered headdress.  Likely worn for ceremonies.

Ornaments made from gold.  The Spanish conquerers killed for this.

Opening in back of eagle for blood and hearts of sacrificial victims.

It was an honour to be sacrificed to the sun god.

Gold medallion encrusted with turquoise mosaics.

Mosaic mask.

Aztec Codice:  Written record of daily life.

Feudal system.

More mosaic art.

Day One: Part Two!

During the afternoon of the first day, Pat and I walked to the Latin American tower in the city centre. The Torre Latinoamericana is one of Mexico's first skyscrapers and it was built in the 1950s.  It offers an incredible view and amazingly it has survived many earthquakes.  For $90 pesos per person you can tour the tower and go up as many times as you want in one day.  We went up once in the afternoon and then again at dusk.  The tower offers beautiful views of this amazing city of more than 20 million people!

This tower offers a great view of the city! 

20 million people means lots of traffic!

Day time view

At sunset

View of the Palacio de Belles Artes

First Day!

After a great sleep in our beautiful hostel room at the Mexico City Hostel, we had breakfast (on site and included in the cost of our room).  There are many good hostels to choose from and ours was very clean and well run.  Our room had two beds, a large private bath, beautiful ceramic tile floors, exposed beams and high ceilings.  Our private room cost $600 pesos per night (for two).  That is about $50 Canadian and as I mentioned, included breakfast.  Very affordable.
The first full day in Mexico City was spent exploring the city centre.  We toured the Templo Mayor historical site.  This great temple, built by the Aztecs in the 14th and 15th centuries, was the heart of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan.  Like much of Aztec life, it was almost completely destroyed by the Spanish invaders but a chance discovery in 1978 led to the excavation of this great piece of history.  The December 1980 edition of National Geographic has great articles about this landmark and of course, you can learn more on the web.
I hired a guide, outside the site, to walk us around the ruins and explain it to us.  The temple is actually seven temples in one.  Each one was superimposed on the one before.  The original temple was built some time after 1325 by the Aztecs when they settled in the area.  They built the temple on a spot where they had seen an eagle perched on a cactus eating a snake.  This vision fulfilled a prophecy and directed the original peoples to choose this site.  Each successive ruler, simply built a new temple over the top of the previous one.  Over time the site got larger and larger.  Excavations have revealed parts of the outer walls of each temple and one can literally walk back in time at this location.  Amazing tour!  The cost of admission was $65 pesos and that includes admission to the accompanying museum on site.  The guide was extra, and of course, optional.

Side view of Templo Mayor ruins.

Our guide, Martin, explains the significance of the ruins.

Panorama shot!

Writhing Serpant.  Aztec symbolism!

Steps of the Fourth Stage

Wall of Skulls

These are actual skulls covered in stucco!

This is a reproduction in the museum.

Sacrificial victim!

Offerings buried in tombs at the corners of the temple reveal much about Aztec life.

Beautiful ceramics.  Jade was more valued than gold by the Aztecs.

Sacrificial knives often had faces!

Mictlantecuhtil:  God of Death

Life Size Eagle Knight

Day One: Arrival Tips

My husband Pat did all the booking for this trip while I was still in Africa.  It is easy to find flights to Mexico City and many airlines fly there.  We flew out of the Syracuse Airport.  The advantages of this airport include competitive prices, an easy drive from Kingston, easy on site parking and good park and fly options at nearby hotels.  We drove to Syracuse and left our car at the airport.  So easy!
When you arrive in Mexico City you will need to take a taxi to your hotel or hostel.  As you enter the departure area you may be approached by men offering to get you a taxi.  Don't do this.  Apparently there have been some problems with these independent operators.  Instead look for the booths that advertise legitimate, approved companies.  There are several to choose from and you can't miss the Yellow Cab signs.  Approach the helpful person at the desk and book with them.  You will pay for your cab in advance (approximately 180 pesos) and receive two slips, one that you keep as proof of payment and one that you give the driver.  You will then be directed to the taxi area and someone there will help you find your driver.  It all works so easily and before you know it you will be delivered very safely to your accommodations!  Depending on your arrival time you might also choose to use the subway system.  For approximately 50 cents Canadian you can go anywhere that they Subway goes within the city.  We were not familiar with the system when we arrived so we took a cab but on our way out we used the subway.

Taxi Chit

Part Two: Mexico City Adventures!

Hello Blogger readers!  I am back from another adventure.  This time I traveled with my husband and a friend to Mexico City for one week.  This location had been on my bucket list for some time.  As home to the Aztecs, the city abounds with historical sites and lessons, ripe for the taking.  Ruins, pyramids, world class museums, colourful flora and fauna, there is much to enjoy in a trip to this great city.  If you have never been, consider adding this location to your own bucket list.  You won't regret it!